Jewellery shoot(er)s of the year: Tania et Vincent


Last up in our short but sweet summary of the best shots of the first half of the year, are Parisian-dwelling lovers-stroke-fashion photographers Tania and Vincent.

Building up a diverse clientele over the past few years, including Cartier, their off-key, daring, exciting style has provoked and impressed in equal measures.

Their recent work for Cartier (top) plays with the scale of the eponymous panther with gorgeous results - totally in contrast to this is a shoot featuring another well known creature; Bambi, we see them go all cute for our favourite French magazine Please!.


Another classic motif - the Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels - was shot in almost traditional jewellery shoot 'white background' mode - but was given a trademark twist that must have taken precise timing and huge technical skill (and/or lots of eggs).


We love their random art direction and choice of props - they haven't seemed to have got stuck in a particular style, yet their work oozes quality, freshness and humour.

Lots more to see at www.taniaetvincent.com.

All images copyright Tania et Vincent 2009.

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Un-guilty pleasures.

We have strong feelings when it comes to sourcing responsibly sourced gold, silver and gemstones for jewellery, and we don't really understand why the use of ethical materials isn't more widespread throughout the industry.

The jewellery market (and luxury market in general) should, in theory, have a higher 'consumer demand' success rate than other areas - if the consumer demands ethical materials, they should be able to be arranged. Right? So why have we only been able to find one fine jewellery retailer in London that manages to be fully ethical in all its practices AND designs totally high-end, wearable and unique collections?

Well after meeting the amazing Arabel Lebrusan, owner of Leblas jewellery, at a seminar on Ethical Gold in the Jewellery Industry earlier this year (yeah we're such geeks) we're now able to give a little bit more information on the subject other than the basic "err, don't buy conflict diamonds" standard soundbite.


Leblas supports sustainable, ethical practices through all areas of their business - using traceable materials, recycled gold and silver, and getting each piece made by skilled artisans in Spain. So no eight year old kids in sweat shops, then.



But - and here's the surprise - the jewellery is REALLY GOOD. Not the usual 'fair trade' fayre - this collection is surprising, intelligent and beautiful. Graphic lines and subtle design twists in high quality 100% recycled 18k gold and sterling silver.


Our top picks include the acclaimed 'Sequin' collection (ring at top, diamond ring, and mens cufflinks pictured) and the cute 'Duet' diamond ring (above and below) - a unique alternative to the standard engagement ring market that usually leave us rolling our eyes and miming a dry-wretch.


This is finally what the market has been crying out for - a guilty pleasure that you no longer need to feel guilty about - a reasonably priced, ethically sourced, non mass-produced, intelligently designed luxury. Perfect.

To read a slightly more informed explaination of sustainable practices, and to peruse the collections, go to www.leblas.com.

All images copyright Leblas 2009

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Rant. Apologies in advance, TopShop...

As hardcore devotees of beautiful, quality, innovative jewellery design - no matter if it comes from designers big or small - we have been feeling more and more riled at the proliferation of high street tat recently.


Image: some high street tat

In fact, it's the high streets' wares in general that are leaving us with an uncomfortable feeling in our stomachs - and not just due to the knowledge that the impossibly low prices must, at some stage along the route to market, come from an exploited workforce (a £10 sequinned top cannot - cannot - be sold for that much whilst paying the person who made it a fair wage. It just can't.)


But it's not just that. We are so bombarded with magazines telling us what to wear; monthly glossies, weekly gossip mags and even daily newspapers all feature fashion sections telling us what to wear now. And we listen to them! In our droves! We head to TopShop or Selfridges or American Apparel or Reiss - and we all buy the same things.

The high street is killing our ability to define and develop our own styles and tastes - identikit looks are hammered home to us so relentlessly that it's all too easy to forget what style and clothes and looks you actually like - and off you go to Oxford St and buy what looks good on the mannequins.

Enough! Our senses are dulled and our sense of personal style is dying by the minute. Don't buy into this - buy original, independent designers' work. Buy from markets and boutiques and vintage stores and Ebay. Remember what colours you like and styles you like and even what mood you're in - and type it into the interweb and see what you find. It's a lot harder to decide what you actually like when it's hanging amongst a pile of old clothes or is buried in a sea of broken old jewels - but trust your instincts and you'll find things that really express who you are and what you like...cheesy but true.

Image: Merci, high-end charity store, Paris. Much better.

You can discover and develop your tastes by choosing not to buy into a selected vision of 'what looks good' as decreed by some big retailer's marketing and research department. It's all too easy to have it all laid out for you - rummage, wander, google and hunt things down - and don't let a store define your style. A brand name doesn't equate to quality and certainly not to originality.

Ok rant over. Phew.

Check these stores, markets and websites for something a bit more interesting:

www.alfiesantiques.com
www.colette.fr
www.ebay.com (don't knock it)
www.merci-merci.com
www.80spurple.com
www.cockpitarts.com
www.aloharag.com
www.eriebasin.com
www.doverstreetmarket.com
www.thecutlondon.com (yeah)

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Guest editor: Nina May

Nina May is the founder of gorgeous online boutique ninaandlola.com. Because we love all the beautiful pieces she sells, we figured she must have pretty good taste (like us), and asked her to select a couple of pieces for The Cut...

(Nina May) : "And so to The Cut’s and my good friend Hannah Martin. Attracted to the dark side with all its underworld and grimy rock venue glory, the one-time Cello-playing maverick of the London jewellery scene chose the smallest possible niche for her label: High-end jewellery for men with a rock n’ roll edge. Her saving grace has been the calculated appeal to women, who happily steal their boyfriend’s necklaces – or just order it for themselves for a sublime knock-em-out piece of jewellery.

My favourite ring has already been featured on this blog – the Stud ring with the rubies inside:
Wearing the stones against your skin induces a distinct kind of smugness, a feeling I so thoroughly enjoy. Especially during a recent trip to NYC: girls who got their boyfriends to spend three months’ wages on a splinter from the 'Blah' range at Tiffany’s looked baffled when seeing this seemingly simple piece. Why paint perfectly Wall Street-worthy gold with black paint, and why wear stones without showing them off? Ahhhh, aspirational simpletons.

They’d most certainly also don’t get why Hannah chose Russian gangsters and tsars as the inspiration for her latest collection Vincent. After the world had learned about the health benefits of Polonium-210, Chelsea became Chelsky and Russian submarines were up to all sorts of no-goodness, Hannah hand-carved her first Imperial Eagle Icon ring.

Inspired by the symbol of the last Russian tsar, it’s a corner stone in a smart collection (encompassing silver and gold pieces) that plays with symbols and talisman of the Russian empire. The ring is by Hannah’s standards a steal at £350.

If you insist on spending more – and who doesn’t? – Vincent’s Empty Sovereign ring should do the trick.

Hannah says: ‘His story was inspired by 1950's roulette wheels, rat pack style, with a hint of art deco gentleman's accessories (think Cartier lighters of the '30's). This is the ring of power for Vincent. The story goes that this is the family ring, an insignia passed from father to son marred with a bloodied history. When the Empty Sovereign appears on Vincent’s left hand, a life has been lost…"

It is created combining modern CAD technology with very traditional craftsmanship techniques. Each of the blue-black sapphires are cut by hand specifically for each piece, to work with the complexity of the setting. The 18 carat gold piece is yours for £3525."


WHAT ARE THE CHANCES OF THAT? Nina loves Hannah too. Since it has been at least two weeks since we featured any of Hannah's work, we didn't think you'd mind.

Have a look at Nina's beautiful wares online at www.ninaandlola.com; Hannah's pieces are available through the site or directly from the designer at www.hannahmartinlondon.com


All images copyright Hannah Martin 2009

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Aussie jewels: part 2


So we found this gorgeous piece yesterday - a beautifully crafted 'spike' ring by Australian designer Jason Moss...

Available to buy from the designer's website, or, if you happen to be in Sydney, Australia, you can pop by the studio. Nice. From $160 Aussie dollars in silver, and $600 in 18k yellow gold.

We like the slim proportions balanced out by the spikey, studded ridges...almost enough to warrant a 24 hour plane journey to check out the rest of the collection in person.


http://jasonmoss.com.au

Image copyright Jason Moss 2009

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We are the young Australians....



First up - the mighty Jordan Askill. A man of many fingers in many pies, he has already chalked up an impressive CV in fashion-land including Ksubi, Alexander McQueen and Dior Homme - that's Sydney, London and Paris under his belt at the annoying age of 29. Grr.


But his beautiful work makes us like him a bit more. A lot more, actually...the latest fine jewellery collection (available exclusively at Dover St Market in London and Rick Owens in Paris) is high concept but highly wearable, reminiscent of antique jewellery in the look and feel of the production, yet still managing to feel very contemporary - and totally unique to the over-filled market at the moment.

Weirdly though, there's a totally different range available - simple and super-light heart mini-collection (still online at Liberty):
The rest of his body of work includes stunning 3d 'landscapes' in the form of sculpture, (check out amazing live-motion here) film directing with equally over-talented brothers Daniel and Loril, and styling other music and fashion projects. Yikes. Super talent and super ambition...


Have a look at www.askillprojects.com

All images copyright Jordan Askill 2009

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Luxury Lust: still going strong for les Rois et Reines...

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The wonder of Lydia Courteille...




Super high-end Parisian uber-jeweller Lydia Courteille is a serious player in the one of a kind, antique stone, jewellery-as-art niche. When she describes her work as 'bijoux extraodinaires', she's not exaggerating. Her website is a virtual cabinet of curiousities...exploring her fascination with the dark and gothic, the extent of her work is vast - covering floral and natural motifs, skulls, cameos and crowns...all evoking feelings of a dark fairytale land.


The craftsmanship on each piece is possibly the best we've ever seen this century - immaculate and painfully precise pavé work, and the beautifully cut stones incorporating the blackened gold she often works with as if they had never existed without each other. Dramatic stuff, and will undoubtedly blow your mind if intricate and highly skilled work impresses you.


Our favourites include these mesmerising sphere rings (above top and below) - a little trickery under the crystal reveals the image of a skull. Amazing.


In a similar vein to one of our other favourites, Solange Azagury Partridge, Lydia Courteille has commissioned fantastic artwork to introduce each themed collection on her website - the mixed-media artist Natalie Shau's work is a perfect match to Courteille's unnerving and exciting world.



A few pieces are available at Browns in London, but the best stuff is at the boutique in Paris:

231, rue Saint Honoré
75001 PARIS
+ 33 1 42 61 11 71

The stunning website is also without doubt worth a visit: www.lydiacourteille.com

All images copyright Lydia Courteille 2009

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This month we're feeling:

Sarah Bernhardt's jewel-laden style...



The french actress's towering stone-encrusted headpiece and clusters of rings on every finger leaves us wanting a crown....

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Solange: 7 Vices and 7 Virtues

7 vices 7 virtues fine jewellery solange azagury partridge ring
Yes yes yes....how does she do it to us every time? This Solange Azagury-Partridge show-stopping show-piece manages to encompass everything we love in fine jewellery - an astoundingly high level of technical craftsmanship that is rarely seen these days in 18k gold: the rotating panel - with a diamond studded surround - lifts up to switch from 'Vices' to 'Virtues' in a smooth, satisfying motion.... and if that wasn't enough you can then move a small gold reader to highlight how you might be feeling that day...

We'd prefer sticking to the vices...'gluttony', 'lust' and 'sloth' pretty must sums up our weekend.

Enjoy.

The range expands in-store. Images copyright Solange Azagury Partridge 2009.

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The best jewellery shoots of the year: PART 2

Part 2: Alix Malka for Flair Magazine



Despite appearing part-beauty shoot; this vision from mega-photographer Alix Malka fits our expectations of what jewellery editorials deserve these days.

Bringing with him the uber-glamour styling from his wealth of high-fashion experience, the Parisian snapper is one of the leading photographers in his field. And one of the most requested.


Selected fine jewels are given a bright, street-style edge with the hyper-exposed colour hues, in a similar vein to Spanish photographer Paco Perigrin's work.


With the finesse (and budget) of a seriously high-end advertising campaign, these shots allow the detail of the jewellery to really stand out - despite all the craziness going on around them.

What we really like about this editorial is that the styling doesn't swallow up the product - each shot has been meticulously contrived to allow all the elements of the frame to co-exist perfectly together...

Images copyright of Alix Malka 2009

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Big bad rings. Lazy but effective.

matina amanita horse amour ring gold kabiriDespite our relentless love of jewels we are sometimes very lazy when it comes to accessorising. Those days when all you want to do is wear a tshirt/jeans/trainers and still look remotely interesting? The solution is in the chunky bulky hardnut option of a huge, minimal stone ring (preferably articulated, i.e. with mechanic style moving parts; hinges, springs etc).

It confirms you still know what you're doing fashion-wise, you just can't really be bothered to construct a whole outfit.

The three current favourites include the horse-head 'Armour' rings (above) from label Matina Amanita, available from the increasingly good Kabiri for £375.

Although - we slightly suspect that designer was ever-so-slightly influenced by the mighty Vivienne Westwood: see below for Viv's 'Armour' ring. Yes - they didn't even bother changing the name. Yikes. Brave.

vivienne westwood armour articulated ring gold silver
Vivienne's design (£175 in gold plated silver from here) has been around for years and also comes in a smaller version where you can open up the ring into 3 hinged rings and wear as a proper knuckle-duster. N.B: Ms Westwood does license out her jewellery designs - which means she doesn't actually design the pieces herself - so be aware that this is pretty much the only decent thing in the jewellery collection these days. No offence, Viv...

Finally, in a post on hardcore hardware, it wouldn't be right for us not to mention our beloved mens/womens/whatever designer Hannah Martin. Her men's 'Spur' ring in 18k yellow gold with minimal black diamonds can be sized to fit women - phew - costs £1750.

hannah martin spur ring yellow gold black diamonds london jewellerYes, it may cost 10 times as much as Viv's but there will only be a limited run of 100 ever made, and it's solid 18k yellow gold. Worth every penny, we say.

Images copyright Matina Amanita 2009, Vivienne Westwood 2009 and Hannah Martin London 2009.

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