Honeypot ring, 18k goldContinuing our coverage of the best jewellery designers
not in possession of any formal design qualifications, this week our focus is fixed on the sculptural, graphic styles of Sarah Herriot.
Based in Clerkenwell, London, Sarah started out as a computer programmer before moving into the jewellery world. And we're very pleased she did - her bold, heavyweight statement rings are all satisfying structural forms in their own right - we can imagine them as large scale sculptures, and their strong, smooth lines feel satisfyingly architectural in our hands.
Not needing excessive embellishment, these minimalist pieces have a contemporary but classic feel. Not too showy, due to the absence of any overly sparkly stones, the large scale feels just right executed in plain 18k gold or sterling silver.
Twist & Shout rings, sterling silverThe computer programming background has obviously come in useful for Sarah, as she feels comfortable working in 3D programs to design and produce her collections; a highly skilled technical method that is best for producing pieces that require huge accuracy and complexity. Each piece is then hand finished in Sarah's workshop.
Being fascinated by hugely talented people who have managed to create a successful business in an area where they have no formal training, we asked Sarah a few questions about how she feels to be doing what she's doing...
The Cut: How has not having any formal (degree-level) training affected your work?
SH: Getting my confidence has been a real struggle without the years of formal training, only really feeling good in the last year or so.
The Cut: Do you think your style would be different had it been forced in certain directions through training?
SH: Design-wise I think I may still have come to the same conclusions, that is, making very strong structural and sculptural work. I wonder that maybe I would not make commercial compromises and have more faith in letting go.
Manhattan rings, sterling silverWhy have you positioned your work outside of the 'fashion' world, i.e. stocking in high-end galleries and not high-end fashion boutiques? Your work could indeed be considered fashionable?
SH: I didn't want to be hemmed into to doing collections for spring/summer and fall/winter on a yearly basis, which is essential in fashion. That wasn't how I was going to work. I don't think I could deal with the pressure of designing that quickly, and also having to follow the current trends.
Twist & Shout ring, 18k gold
How has the success of your Twist & Shout ring (it is stocked all over the world) changed your business? Is this the result of a happy union between you and Rhino, or did you have the design in mind but couldn't manually make it by hand?
SH: Yes, the Twist and Shout has got out there, although 'all over the world' might be a bit of an over statement. It has gone to China, USA, Italy, Netherlands, Denmark and the UK, as well as being stocked by the Tate Modern. The design has certainly stood out as unique in a way that has been very helpful for me. I had been making plain solid egg rings in silver and bronze (see below) with a number of different surface finishes, and I did have a number of designs in mind that would have been difficult to impossible in wax, and ideal for CAD. A very happy union indeed, in fact I use it as a design tool to try things out, also to draw up and render designs for clients, whether they are to be made by hand or rapid prototyped.
The Cut: What is your favourite piece that you have designed and why?
SH: I'm very proud of the Gothic Arch ring (below), it was an incredibly complicated model which turned into a labour of love.
Gothic Arch ring (Tower of London) , 18k gold and tourmaline Who would you love to collaborate with?
SH: I am a huge admirer of Richard Serra's sculpture, so maybe him, all things being equal...
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Egg rings, in bronze and sterling silverVery modest indeed. Considering she has won numerous awards for her designs (most notably the industry top dog 'Goldsmiths Fine Jewellery Prize' in 2008) Sarah seems slightly reticent in flaunting her talent in all its glory...but we aren't having any of that. The solid, wearable designs are perfect accessories for any occasion - proof that statement jewellery doesn't need to be laden with bling to give it gravitas.
All Sarah's designs are available directly from her studio - (hooray! Our favourite way of buying!) - which you can visit by appointment or you can arrange your purchase over the 'phone.
www.sarahherriot.com
All images copyright Sarah Herriot 2009
Read more...
This debut 'Signature' range really encapsulates what we're wanting from jewellery at the moment - good stone selection, innovative unfussy shapes and lines, and lots of 18k gold. Black diamonds are particularly prominent, another good thing, as well as touches of deeper colours such as red garnet and rich cognac.
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