Leblas branches out....

18 carat gold & diamond Square ring

Our favourite SW1 jewellery store has expanded its range to support a number of ace independent designers - SHO, Missoma and Francesca Sibylla Augusta. More from them to come.

The Leblas label by Arabel Lebrusan still remain our favourite pieces in the store though...we've picked a few of the highlights in all their recycled golden glory.

18 carat gold and diamond Square earrings

18 carat gold and diamond Square pendant

The simplicity of the designs and the geometric structure aren't typical of all the Leblas pieces - but they are our favourites. Inspired by typical Edwardian styles, the shapes are bold whilst remaining delicate and light....

Harlequin Sombra earrings in 18 carat gold and Malawi sapphires, amethysts and Raja garnets


Harlequin Sombra ring in 18 carat gold and Malawi sapphires, amethysts and Raja garnets

The Harlequin collection is the perfect pop of colour with all our grey/black/leather/studded winter-wear...

Further collections are available in the store - and to be honest it all looks much more beautiful in the flesh - perfect proportions, reasonable prices and amazing customer service from the gorgeous team.

Easily one of our favourite indpendent London boutiques with really unique designs. Plus - you're kind of saving the earth from being ravaged in the name of fashion by buying recycled gold and ethical stones. At 149 Sloane St, London SW1X 9BZ.

All images copyright Leblas 2009

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Ana de Costa - not your usual hippy.

18ct yellow gold and Tsavorite asymmetric earrings

We often find ourselves loving a piece of jewellery much more after we've met the jeweller themselves.

And after hearing the lovely, rambling Ana de Costa passionately effuse over her intricate designs - describing the deep, dark late nights exploring her inspirations - we couldn't help but feel a stronger connection with her pieces. And with Ana, too.


Her bohemian spirit slightly betrays the polished, fine jewellery she produces; but her personality definitely seeps into the high-end world she's selling to: asymmetry, thorny, spiky detailing and references to mystic and spiritual worlds are all strongly present - edgy references sitting boldly in her somewhat classical style.

18k white gold, Tanzanite and diamond cocktail ring

In a similar vein to fellow St Martin's graduate Hannah Martin (Ana graduated in 2005), Ana clearly isn't afraid to add her own trademark style to extremely expensive pieces, despite it possibly not being to the traditional fine jewellery clients' tastes - thus reducing her potential audience.

A brave move indeed, and one we strongly applaud. Ana's bold use of colour, unusual design references and constant challenging of the traditional fine jewellery boundaries will ensure that this young designer remains a prominent force in the London jewellery world.

We heart you, Ana.

For more images and to see Ana's previous collections, visit www.ana-de-costa.com.

All images copyright Ana de Costa 2009

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Melanie Eddy - again.

When we thought Melanie Eddy's perfectly crafted sculptured rings couldn't get any better, she sneakily added a selection of gorgeous rocks: sapphires, diamonds and aquamarine.




We aren't huge fans of big rocks - but these strong, straight-sided stones really sit well with Melanie's smooth edges, and allow the beauty of the expanses of 18k gold to shine.

Scroll down to see the plain metal versions, or go to www.melanieeddy.co.uk

All images copyright Melanie Eddy 2009

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Melanie Eddy - sharp stuff.

Mmmm....geometric gorgeousness from Melanie Eddy - another great find at this year's Goldsmith's Fair.

Jewellery designs that demand a perfectly accurate line or angle are usually made using 3D modelling on a computer - but these rings have a hand-sculpted feel, with slight subtle curves that allude to a hand-made technique....perfectly formed shapes and facets that give just the right level of graphic style.



A St. Martin's graduate and fellow classmate of ethical jewellery pioneer Arabel Lebrusan of Leblas (see previous The Cut features showcasing Arabel's men's and women's jewellery designs), we're really excited to see the rest of Melanie's cool, clean collection.

More designs to follow in a few weeks...in the meantime visit www.melanieeddy.co.uk.

Images copyright Melanie Eddy 2009

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Jo Hayes-Ward - crafty but good.

So we're not usually huge fans of the whole 'craft' jewellery scene - there's only so many large 'pebble' necklaces and weird wirework rings we can handle.

However - we recently spotted new work from Jo Hayes-Ward, a big player on the more 'craft-y' end of the jewellery shows, and an award-winning designer who despite her young age has been at the forefront of rapid prototyping in jewellery for years since graduating from the RCA in 2006.


The resulting cubist-style pieces have a futuristic edge; feeling like lunar landscapes or natural geological formations - appearing hugely modern and complex, yet organic at the same time.


We particularly like the gem-set pieces (above and top), where the graduating metallic tones and absolute accuracy of the design shines through - interlocking pieces and perfectly set stones are a fantastic additional to Jo's collections - proving that this designer is not just a one trick pony.

Her distinctive look has managed to stay strong throughout the past 4 years, with each new collection bringing something exciting and new to her staple style.

She is currently a resident at the eponymous Cockpit Arts Studios in Deptford, London....pieces are available by contacting Jo directly at www.johayes.com.

All images copyright Jo Hayes-Ward 2009

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IJL: Kity Sun

We love Kity Sun. After winning the prestigious Bright Young Gems award at this year's IJL, she's been snapped up by Astley Clarke for 2010, and is carrying an aesthetic that sits exactly on our radar at the moment. Lightweight, gold, slightly space-age constructions are the perfect adornment to our current uniform of grey/black/white.

Watch this space for more of her work before it launches next year. A young London jewellery design talent worth watching, we reckon. Go Kity.

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Solange does the Zodiac

Since Zodiac, or star-sign, jewellery is usually so naff, we don't own any - despite quite liking the motifs used in the traditional western calendar...the fish, the crab, the bull - all good.


But our minds were changed when we laid eyes on Solange Azagury-Partridge's Zodiac collection. Figurative, substantial creatures in 18k white and yellow gold, studded with diamonds...what's not to like?




By using the skeletal forms of the animals in the zodiac, Solange has taken a traditionally un-explored area in the cooler end of fine jewellery, and created these lust-worthy pieces.

It makes me want to change my star sign. (to Taurus, below...)


View the other months' designs at www.solangeazagurypartridge.com

All images cocpyright Solange Azagury-Partridge 2009

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Hannah Martin for Leblas

Hannah Martin and Arabel Lebrusan have joined forces to design the menswear line for Arabel's label, Leblas. And we like the results (surprise surprise). As is expected from Hannah Martin, the look is solid, chunky, clean - and a bit hard.

Our favourites include the Nuts and Bolts range, featuring a solid stacked ring of 18k gold, sterling silver and sapphires....

Available online at www.leblas.com.

All images copyright Leblas 2009

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Leblas - The Alhambra Collection

Another report on the superb new London-based label Leblas....we love it so much not only for its pioneering determination to run a totally ethical practice throughout the entire business, but the sharp, strong design aesthetic.


The Alhambra collection uses motifs from owner and design director Arabel Lebrusan's Spanish heritage, resulting in stunning, angular pieces.

Anthill garnets are set in 18k white recycled gold...all responsibly sourced, obviously...

This jewellery collection (and many others - to be featured soon on the Cut) is available online at www.leblas.com or from the gorgeous store in Sloane St - just round the corner from Lara Bohinc.

All images copyright Leblas 2009

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The best of IJL: Yuki Mitsuyasu

Yuki Mitsuyasu's debut at IJL in 2008 totally blew us away. Her simple, delicate pieces (a style that rarely tends to blow us away, to be honest) had something different. And we weren't the only ones who thought so, as she promptly won the Best New Product award for her Shine collection...


Her simple, graphic aesthetic is hugely wearable - but it's the detail and interactive nature of her style that really make them stand out. The (award-winning) Shine collection takes a classic star motif, made from two separate hearts, and adds a playful yet functional detail; making the clasp the focus - and success - of the piece.


Innovative and beautifully crafted (with crazy precision) - all of Yuki's pieces have been carefully considered from every perspective - form, function, detail and finish are all perfectly executed.


Yuki says of her new collection; entitled 'Bonding' (above and below):

"Making full use of the form of ball chain, the Bonding collection emphasizes simplicity. However, to look beautiful, a simple piece of jewellery must also have balance. That is why the chain on each of these pieces can be cut into any length to suit any individual, or more than one piece can be joined together. This way, the piece and the wearer achieve perfect balance."


The simple and the fun, interactive nature of Yuki's designs makes us really want to know what she's going to do next. It's rare that a designer with such considered approach to the functionality of her jewellery manages to produce pieces that we really want to wear - her work could sit as easily in a jewellery gallery as in a boutique.

We can't decide whether to wear them or hang them in our hallway...

Yuki's work retails at Sweet Pea in London and Baroque Bespoke Jewellery in Brighton, or contact the designer directly through her website at www.mitzyas.com.

All images copyright Yuki Mitsuyasu 2009.

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Earl's Court Hell: the best of IJL

'Tied-up' earrings by Lauren Adriana. 18ct yellow gold with rubies, smoky quartz, and trillion cut prasiolite.

Ahh, IJL. Four days of all things jewellery....designers, stone dealers, tool and packaging manufacturers, no natural light, overpriced food, and people stealing your designs. Fantastic.

Our visit usually consists of a walk straight to the back section - where the new design talent is grouped together - and a brisk meander through all the mediocrity to hunt down anything decent.

And this is what we liked this year: Duffy, Kity Sun (no website yet), Andy Farrow, Lauren Adriana, Phoebe Coleman and Yuki Mitsuyasu. And all for different reasons.

Starting with the high-end fine jewellery is Lauren Adriana. A young and perky St Martin's graduate, Lauren has created a very British brand image; polished, classic, with serious statement jewellery.

A small and finely honed collection of one-off show-stoppers, as well as more traditional engagement ring styles (albeit with really nice detailing on the stone setting) Lauren has ventured straight into the deep-end for her impressively grown-up debut.


The stand-out pieces are the one offs: the 'Mondrian' earrings (above) in black rhodium plated 18ct gold with rubies, black sapphires and the huge bespoke cut quartz drops are a great example of unique and unusual setting techniques - combined with the original cut of the quartz makes these a really stunning pair...we're loving black rhodium and seeing more and more of it around at the moment, too.

This 'Thistle' pendant (above) is also an impressive piece - and one which should have Stephen Webster feeling slightly concerned over his current reign as 'designer-with-the-craziest-yet-strangely-commercial-at-the-same-time-settings-for-the-biggest-rocks-in-London'.

It may look scarily spikey, but we've worn it and it's actually really comfortable - mainly due to the expert craftsmanship that has gone into the designing and the making - in fact, the back of the piece is so gorgeous you could wear it back to front. Yes. It's that good.

Have a look at the very prim and proper website at www.laurenadriana.com - we think prim and proper is an excellent route to take in the very overcrowded 'we're so rock'n'roll' market that most London jewellers seem to be occupying (or trying to) at the moment.


The classic British elegance of Lauren Adriana, combined with a bravery to go for unusual stones and settings, gives the brand an edge that most do not possess this early on in their lifespan...

All images copyright Lauren Adriana 2009.

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Too Cool for School: Part 2; Sarah Herriot

Honeypot ring, 18k gold

Continuing our coverage of the best jewellery designers not in possession of any formal design qualifications, this week our focus is fixed on the sculptural, graphic styles of Sarah Herriot.

Based in Clerkenwell, London, Sarah started out as a computer programmer before moving into the jewellery world. And we're very pleased she did - her bold, heavyweight statement rings are all satisfying structural forms in their own right - we can imagine them as large scale sculptures, and their strong, smooth lines feel satisfyingly architectural in our hands.

Not needing excessive embellishment, these minimalist pieces have a contemporary but classic feel. Not too showy, due to the absence of any overly sparkly stones, the large scale feels just right executed in plain 18k gold or sterling silver.

Twist & Shout rings, sterling silver

The computer programming background has obviously come in useful for Sarah, as she feels comfortable working in 3D programs to design and produce her collections; a highly skilled technical method that is best for producing pieces that require huge accuracy and complexity. Each piece is then hand finished in Sarah's workshop.

Being fascinated by hugely talented people who have managed to create a successful business in an area where they have no formal training, we asked Sarah a few questions about how she feels to be doing what she's doing...

The Cut: How has not having any formal (degree-level) training affected your work?

SH: Getting my confidence has been a real struggle without the years of formal training, only really feeling good in the last year or so.

The Cut: Do you think your style would be different had it been forced in certain directions through training?

SH: Design-wise I think I may still have come to the same conclusions, that is, making very strong structural and sculptural work. I wonder that maybe I would not make commercial compromises and have more faith in letting go.

Manhattan rings, sterling silver

The Cut: Why have you positioned your work outside of the 'fashion' world, i.e. stocking in high-end galleries and not high-end fashion boutiques? Your work could indeed be considered fashionable?

SH: I didn't want to be hemmed into to doing collections for spring/summer and fall/winter on a yearly basis, which is essential in fashion. That wasn't how I was going to work. I don't think I could deal with the pressure of designing that quickly, and also having to follow the current trends.

Twist & Shout ring, 18k gold

The Cut: How has the success of your Twist & Shout ring (it is stocked all over the world) changed your business? Is this the result of a happy union between you and Rhino, or did you have the design in mind but couldn't manually make it by hand?

SH: Yes, the Twist and Shout has got out there, although 'all over the world' might be a bit of an over statement. It has gone to China, USA, Italy, Netherlands, Denmark and the UK, as well as being stocked by the Tate Modern. The design has certainly stood out as unique in a way that has been very helpful for me. I had been making plain solid egg rings in silver and bronze (see below) with a number of different surface finishes, and I did have a number of designs in mind that would have been difficult to impossible in wax, and ideal for CAD. A very happy union indeed, in fact I use it as a design tool to try things out, also to draw up and render designs for clients, whether they are to be made by hand or rapid prototyped.

The Cut: What is your favourite piece that you have designed and why?

SH: I'm very proud of the Gothic Arch ring (below), it was an incredibly complicated model which turned into a labour of love.

Gothic Arch ring (Tower of London) , 18k gold and tourmaline

The Cut: Who would you love to collaborate with?

SH: I am a huge admirer of Richard Serra's sculpture, so maybe him, all things being equal...

................................................................................................................

Egg rings, in bronze and sterling silver

Very modest indeed. Considering she has won numerous awards for her designs (most notably the industry top dog 'Goldsmiths Fine Jewellery Prize' in 2008) Sarah seems slightly reticent in flaunting her talent in all its glory...but we aren't having any of that. The solid, wearable designs are perfect accessories for any occasion - proof that statement jewellery doesn't need to be laden with bling to give it gravitas.

All Sarah's designs are available directly from her studio - (hooray! Our favourite way of buying!) - which you can visit by appointment or you can arrange your purchase over the 'phone.

www.sarahherriot.com

All images copyright Sarah Herriot 2009

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Too cool for School...

BT Tower earrings, Jessica McCormack

In honour of the 'back to school' time of year, this month we're featuring a selection of jewellery designers who, er, decided not to.

From computer programmers to graphic designers, we're proving that a) you don't need a degree from St Martins to create beautiful jewels, and b) it's never too late to switch, and ditch, careers. We're big, big fans of those who laugh in the face of traditional career ladders and university degrees, and follow their heart with amazing drive - and success.

First up is newcomer Jessica McCormack. Originally from New Zealand, Jessica worked at Sotheby's in London whilst plotting her business plan to meticulous detail, before launching her label in 2007.

Secret Keeper pendant, heart-shaped diamond set in brass

We viewed a huge selection of her designs up close a few weeks ago at Jessica's stunning salon in Clerkenwell, London, and were enamoured with the almost casual use of huge diamonds - setting a 1 carat diamond in sterling silver - and even diamonds set in brass (Secret Keeper's pendant, above and below) - we loved the use of mixed metals.


A very brave and clever way of reducing the overall use of gold - by setting in silver and adding a solid layer of gold to the back of the piece - ensures the cost (whilst still pretty hefty due to the diamonds) is much less than it would be in solid gold.

New New York ring, diamonds set in oxidised silver and 18k gold

Strong, graphic designs and irreverent sources of inspiration - the Trellick Tower and the BT Tower earrings are our personal favourites - these are solid, heavyweight jewels fit for a girl (or boy) who needs something a bit more substantial in their collection.

Trellick Tower ring

We're seriously impressed at the designer's bold first foray into jewellery design - these unique pieces are weighty one-offs, costing up to tens of thousands of pounds - surely a braver leap into the industry than you would expect from someone without years of practise and shaping at university or experience working for someone else...


These two pairs of earrings featured here (above and top) - based on the BT Tower and the Eiffel Tower respectively, fit perfectly with these season's hard-nosed trends - we particularly like the use of gold with silver, and the fact that the fine detail of the spikes could have someone's eye out...

A booming first collection with idiosyncratic points of reference...we're supporting Jessica all the way in our bid to back independent designers with fresh, new takes on what we want from the jewellery world - and she's proving that you don't need formal training to produce a very impressive collection indeed.

Cunning Mr Fox ring, 181 diamonds and 2 ruby eyes

All pieces featured here are available from Dover St Market, but are one-offs, remember. Certain designs will be remodelled, but never re-made, so get in there quick.

You can also pop in to the stunning Salon for a visit...or even a bespoke commission. Yes please.


Contact enquiries@jessicamccormack.com or call +44 (0)20 7549 6700 for further information.

All images copyright Jessica McCormack 2009

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Jewellery shoot(er)s of the year: Tania et Vincent

Last up in our short but sweet summary of the best shots of the first half of the year, are Parisian-dwelling lovers-stroke-fashion photographers Tania and Vincent.

Building up a diverse clientele over the past few years, including Cartier, their off-key, daring, exciting style has provoked and impressed in equal measures.

Their recent work for Cartier (top) plays with the scale of the eponymous panther with gorgeous results - totally in contrast to this is a shoot featuring another well known creature; Bambi, we see them go all cute for our favourite French magazine Please!.


Another classic motif - the Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels - was shot in almost traditional jewellery shoot 'white background' mode - but was given a trademark twist that must have taken precise timing and huge technical skill (and/or lots of eggs).


We love their random art direction and choice of props - they haven't seemed to have got stuck in a particular style, yet their work oozes quality, freshness and humour.

Lots more to see at www.taniaetvincent.com.

All images copyright Tania et Vincent 2009.

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Un-guilty pleasures.

We have strong feelings when it comes to sourcing responsibly sourced gold, silver and gemstones for jewellery, and we don't really understand why the use of ethical materials isn't more widespread throughout the industry.

The jewellery market (and luxury market in general) should, in theory, have a higher 'consumer demand' success rate than other areas - if the consumer demands ethical materials, they should be able to be arranged. Right? So why have we only been able to find one fine jewellery retailer in London that manages to be fully ethical in all its practices AND designs totally high-end, wearable and unique collections?

Well after meeting the amazing Arabel Lebrusan, owner of Leblas jewellery, at a seminar on Ethical Gold in the Jewellery Industry earlier this year (yeah we're such geeks) we're now able to give a little bit more information on the subject other than the basic "err, don't buy conflict diamonds" standard soundbite.


Leblas supports sustainable, ethical practices through all areas of their business - using traceable materials, recycled gold and silver, and getting each piece made by skilled artisans in Spain. So no eight year old kids in sweat shops, then.



But - and here's the surprise - the jewellery is REALLY GOOD. Not the usual 'fair trade' fayre - this collection is surprising, intelligent and beautiful. Graphic lines and subtle design twists in high quality 100% recycled 18k gold and sterling silver.


Our top picks include the acclaimed 'Sequin' collection (ring at top, diamond ring, and mens cufflinks pictured) and the cute 'Duet' diamond ring (above and below) - a unique alternative to the standard engagement ring market that usually leave us rolling our eyes and miming a dry-wretch.


This is finally what the market has been crying out for - a guilty pleasure that you no longer need to feel guilty about - a reasonably priced, ethically sourced, non mass-produced, intelligently designed luxury. Perfect.

To read a slightly more informed explaination of sustainable practices, and to peruse the collections, go to www.leblas.com.

All images copyright Leblas 2009

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Rant. Apologies in advance, TopShop...

As hardcore devotees of beautiful, quality, innovative jewellery design - no matter if it comes from designers big or small - we have been feeling more and more riled at the proliferation of high street tat recently.

Image: some high street tat

In fact, it's the high streets' wares in general that are leaving us with an uncomfortable feeling in our stomachs - and not just due to the knowledge that the impossibly low prices must, at some stage along the route to market, come from an exploited workforce (a £10 sequinned top cannot - cannot - be sold for that much whilst paying the person who made it a fair wage. It just can't.)


But it's not just that. We are so bombarded with magazines telling us what to wear; monthly glossies, weekly gossip mags and even daily newspapers all feature fashion sections telling us what to wear now. And we listen to them! In our droves! We head to TopShop or Selfridges or American Apparel or Reiss - and we all buy the same things.

The high street is killing our ability to define and develop our own styles and tastes - identikit looks are hammered home to us so relentlessly that it's all too easy to forget what style and clothes and looks you actually like - and off you go to Oxford St and buy what looks good on the mannequins.

Enough! Our senses are dulled and our sense of personal style is dying by the minute. Don't buy into this - buy original, independent designers' work. Buy from markets and boutiques and vintage stores and Ebay. Remember what colours you like and styles you like and even what mood you're in - and type it into the interweb and see what you find. It's a lot harder to decide what you actually like when it's hanging amongst a pile of old clothes or is buried in a sea of broken old jewels - but trust your instincts and you'll find things that really express who you are and what you like...cheesy but true.

Image: Merci, high-end charity store, Paris. Much better.

You can discover and develop your tastes by choosing not to buy into a selected vision of 'what looks good' as decreed by some big retailer's marketing and research department. It's all too easy to have it all laid out for you - rummage, wander, google and hunt things down - and don't let a store define your style. A brand name doesn't equate to quality and certainly not to originality.

Ok rant over. Phew.

Check these stores, markets and websites for something a bit more interesting:

www.alfiesantiques.com
www.colette.fr
www.ebay.com (don't knock it)
www.merci-merci.com
www.80spurple.com
www.cockpitarts.com
www.aloharag.com
www.eriebasin.com
www.doverstreetmarket.com
www.thecutlondon.com (yeah)

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Guest editor: Nina May

Nina May is the founder of gorgeous online boutique ninaandlola.com. Because we love all the beautiful pieces she sells, we figured she must have pretty good taste (like us), and asked her to select a couple of pieces for The Cut...

(Nina May) : "And so to The Cut’s and my good friend Hannah Martin. Attracted to the dark side with all its underworld and grimy rock venue glory, the one-time Cello-playing maverick of the London jewellery scene chose the smallest possible niche for her label: High-end jewellery for men with a rock n’ roll edge. Her saving grace has been the calculated appeal to women, who happily steal their boyfriend’s necklaces – or just order it for themselves for a sublime knock-em-out piece of jewellery.

My favourite ring has already been featured on this blog – the Stud ring with the rubies inside:
Wearing the stones against your skin induces a distinct kind of smugness, a feeling I so thoroughly enjoy. Especially during a recent trip to NYC: girls who got their boyfriends to spend three months’ wages on a splinter from the 'Blah' range at Tiffany’s looked baffled when seeing this seemingly simple piece. Why paint perfectly Wall Street-worthy gold with black paint, and why wear stones without showing them off? Ahhhh, aspirational simpletons.

They’d most certainly also don’t get why Hannah chose Russian gangsters and tsars as the inspiration for her latest collection Vincent. After the world had learned about the health benefits of Polonium-210, Chelsea became Chelsky and Russian submarines were up to all sorts of no-goodness, Hannah hand-carved her first Imperial Eagle Icon ring.

Inspired by the symbol of the last Russian tsar, it’s a corner stone in a smart collection (encompassing silver and gold pieces) that plays with symbols and talisman of the Russian empire. The ring is by Hannah’s standards a steal at £350.

If you insist on spending more – and who doesn’t? – Vincent’s Empty Sovereign ring should do the trick.

Hannah says: ‘His story was inspired by 1950's roulette wheels, rat pack style, with a hint of art deco gentleman's accessories (think Cartier lighters of the '30's). This is the ring of power for Vincent. The story goes that this is the family ring, an insignia passed from father to son marred with a bloodied history. When the Empty Sovereign appears on Vincent’s left hand, a life has been lost…"

It is created combining modern CAD technology with very traditional craftsmanship techniques. Each of the blue-black sapphires are cut by hand specifically for each piece, to work with the complexity of the setting. The 18 carat gold piece is yours for £3525."


WHAT ARE THE CHANCES OF THAT? Nina loves Hannah too. Since it has been at least two weeks since we featured any of Hannah's work, we didn't think you'd mind.

Have a look at Nina's beautiful wares online at www.ninaandlola.com; Hannah's pieces are available through the site or directly from the designer at www.hannahmartinlondon.com


All images copyright Hannah Martin 2009

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Aussie jewels: part 2

So we found this gorgeous piece yesterday - a beautifully crafted 'spike' ring by Australian designer Jason Moss...

Available to buy from the designer's website, or, if you happen to be in Sydney, Australia, you can pop by the studio. Nice. From $160 Aussie dollars in silver, and $600 in 18k yellow gold.

We like the slim proportions balanced out by the spikey, studded ridges...almost enough to warrant a 24 hour plane journey to check out the rest of the collection in person.


http://jasonmoss.com.au

Image copyright Jason Moss 2009

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We are the young Australians....

First up - the mighty Jordan Askill. A man of many fingers in many pies, he has already chalked up an impressive CV in fashion-land including Ksubi, Alexander McQueen and Dior Homme - that's Sydney, London and Paris under his belt at the annoying age of 29. Grr.


But his beautiful work makes us like him a bit more. A lot more, actually...the latest fine jewellery collection (available exclusively at Dover St Market in London and Rick Owens in Paris) is high concept but highly wearable, reminiscent of antique jewellery in the look and feel of the production, yet still managing to feel very contemporary - and totally unique to the over-filled market at the moment.

Weirdly though, there's a totally different range available - simple and super-light heart mini-collection (still online at Liberty):
The rest of his body of work includes stunning 3d 'landscapes' in the form of sculpture, (check out amazing live-motion here) film directing with equally over-talented brothers Daniel and Loril, and styling other music and fashion projects. Yikes. Super talent and super ambition...


Have a look at www.askillprojects.com

All images copyright Jordan Askill 2009

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Luxury Lust: still going strong for les Rois et Reines...

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The wonder of Lydia Courteille...

Super high-end Parisian uber-jeweller Lydia Courteille is a serious player in the one of a kind, antique stone, jewellery-as-art niche. When she describes her work as 'bijoux extraodinaires', she's not exaggerating. Her website is a virtual cabinet of curiousities...exploring her fascination with the dark and gothic, the extent of her work is vast - covering floral and natural motifs, skulls, cameos and crowns...all evoking feelings of a dark fairytale land.


The craftsmanship on each piece is possibly the best we've ever seen this century - immaculate and painfully precise pavé work, and the beautifully cut stones incorporating the blackened gold she often works with as if they had never existed without each other. Dramatic stuff, and will undoubtedly blow your mind if intricate and highly skilled work impresses you.


Our favourites include these mesmerising sphere rings (above top and below) - a little trickery under the crystal reveals the image of a skull. Amazing.


In a similar vein to one of our other favourites, Solange Azagury Partridge, Lydia Courteille has commissioned fantastic artwork to introduce each themed collection on her website - the mixed-media artist Natalie Shau's work is a perfect match to Courteille's unnerving and exciting world.



A few pieces are available at Browns in London, but the best stuff is at the boutique in Paris:

231, rue Saint Honoré
75001 PARIS
+ 33 1 42 61 11 71

The stunning website is also without doubt worth a visit: www.lydiacourteille.com

All images copyright Lydia Courteille 2009

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This month we're feeling:

Sarah Bernhardt's jewel-laden style...



The french actress's towering stone-encrusted headpiece and clusters of rings on every finger leaves us wanting a crown....

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Solange: 7 Vices and 7 Virtues

Yes yes yes....how does she do it to us every time? This Solange Azagury-Partridge show-stopping show-piece manages to encompass everything we love in fine jewellery - an astoundingly high level of technical craftsmanship that is rarely seen these days in 18k gold: the rotating panel - with a diamond studded surround - lifts up to switch from 'Vices' to 'Virtues' in a smooth, satisfying motion.... and if that wasn't enough you can then move a small gold reader to highlight how you might be feeling that day...

We'd prefer sticking to the vices...'gluttony', 'lust' and 'sloth' pretty must sums up our weekend.

Enjoy.

The range expands in-store. Images copyright Solange Azagury Partridge 2009.

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The best jewellery shoots of the year: PART 2

Part 2: Alix Malka for Flair Magazine



Despite appearing part-beauty shoot; this vision from mega-photographer Alix Malka fits our expectations of what jewellery editorials deserve these days.

Bringing with him the uber-glamour styling from his wealth of high-fashion experience, the Parisian snapper is one of the leading photographers in his field. And one of the most requested.


Selected fine jewels are given a bright, street-style edge with the hyper-exposed colour hues, in a similar vein to Spanish photographer Paco Perigrin's work.


With the finesse (and budget) of a seriously high-end advertising campaign, these shots allow the detail of the jewellery to really stand out - despite all the craziness going on around them.

What we really like about this editorial is that the styling doesn't swallow up the product - each shot has been meticulously contrived to allow all the elements of the frame to co-exist perfectly together...

Images copyright of Alix Malka 2009

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Big bad rings. Lazy but effective.

Despite our relentless love of jewels we are sometimes very lazy when it comes to accessorising. Those days when all you want to do is wear a tshirt/jeans/trainers and still look remotely interesting? The solution is in the chunky bulky hardnut option of a huge, minimal stone ring (preferably articulated, i.e. with mechanic style moving parts; hinges, springs etc).

It confirms you still know what you're doing fashion-wise, you just can't really be bothered to construct a whole outfit.

The three current favourites include the horse-head 'Armour' rings (above) from label Matina Amanita, available from the increasingly good Kabiri for £375.

Although - we slightly suspect that designer was ever-so-slightly influenced by the mighty Vivienne Westwood: see below for Viv's 'Armour' ring. Yes - they didn't even bother changing the name. Yikes. Brave.


Vivienne's design (£175 in gold plated silver from here) has been around for years and also comes in a smaller version where you can open up the ring into 3 hinged rings and wear as a proper knuckle-duster. N.B: Ms Westwood does license out her jewellery designs - which means she doesn't actually design the pieces herself - so be aware that this is pretty much the only decent thing in the jewellery collection these days. No offence, Viv...

Finally, in a post on hardcore hardware, it wouldn't be right for us not to mention our beloved mens/womens/whatever designer Hannah Martin. Her men's 'Spur' ring in 18k yellow gold with minimal black diamonds can be sized to fit women - phew - costs £1750.

Yes, it may cost 10 times as much as Viv's but there will only be a limited run of 100 ever made, and it's solid 18k yellow gold. Worth every penny, we say.

Images copyright Matina Amanita 2009, Vivienne Westwood 2009 and Hannah Martin London 2009.

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Vintage Lust: Deco hat pins

We're not quite sure what we'd do with these, we just want them....

Hatpins were a must-have from around 1890 to 1925 - a relatively short passing trend in fashion years - and apart from being worn to keep hats on heads, they were also commonly used by women as self-defence weapons! Fantastic. Gorgeous, practical, and fend off weirdos. What more do you need from a piece of jewellery?

We love this Deco sapphire and diamond pin from c.1910:

And this Louis Vuitton classic gold and pearl (£120 from www.louisvuitton.com)

Our favourite pick has to be this gothic bat made by one of the most well-known hat-pin manufacturers of its day; Unger Brothers in the U.S. How good is this?


We'll wear them as single 'ear spears'...


Image copyright Louis Vuitton 2009

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AW09 Martin Margiela Jewellery

Simple, clean lines, bold structure, graphic shape = good design in our books.

That's why we love the Diamond Structure mini range from Maison Martin Margiela...I'll take the ring, please. And the entire AW09 Womenswear collection.

Enjoy at www.maisonmartinmargiela.com

Image copyright Maison Martin Margiela 2009.

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Top cuts: The designers setting the standard in gemstones.

So we're pretty obsessed with bespoke and original gemstone cuts and settings.

Diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires are inherently beautiful pieces of rock, thus they naturally withstand jewellery trends that sweep years, decades, and even centuries. A beautiful diamond is always a beautiful diamond. So why do designers stick to traditional ways of setting a stone, when technology has moved on so much that possiblities are almost endless? It's just all too easy to go for a bezel or prong setting...in fact we just think it's plain lazy.

Here are are our top 3 stunning feats of engineering and skill - and trust us, it's ridiculously hard to set a stone in the standard ways, let alone to do what these designers have managed...

First up, The Cut favourite Hannah Martin's secret stud rings in 18k yellow gold with sapphires:

And rubies:
To 'hide' a beautiful stone such as a ruby or sapphire is a deliberate jab at the 'pretty pretty precious precious' nature of jewellery-land - where the stones are deemed as unquestionably central to the piece and it's not even an option to position it somewhere unexpected. But Hannah is obviously not bothered with what is expected of her designs, and turns this notion on its sharp little tip.

This is a technical marvel - faceted stones set on the inside of a ring? - we're seriously impressed. In fact we may devote a whole post to Hannah's inventive setting ideas we love them so much...

Secondly is the Martin Margiela 'Upside Down' ring. Not demanding quite as much engineering skill as the above setting, it's sheer simplicity in a basic flipping of a traditional style makes us love it even more.
This simple and innovative design is typical of Margiela's twist on the traditional; an aesthetic that is seen through the (main) fashion arm; producing classic but contemporary basics with trademark immaculate tailoring.

Last up (and first up at the top of this post) is parisian designer Marie-Helene de Talliac. Visiting Marie-Helene's website is a little trippy - like being inside a huge gemstone sweet-shop - colourbursts of all the colours in the spectrum. Cute - but spend too long there and you might be sick. There's only so many rainbow gemstones one person can take - just a little warning.

Saying that, this ring is a clever example of centre-drilling of a relatively soft stone (amethyst). It's simplicity sings through - and lets the pure beauty of the stone really shine, without any surrounding walls to dampen it's luminous glow.
Shop Hannah Martin's collection online, and also at top independent designer boutique Nina & Lola.

Images copyright Hannah Martin 2009, Martin Margiela 2009 and Marie-Helene de Talliac 2009.

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ARCHIVE: : Christopher Kane for Atelier Swarovski

It's actually quite hard to make something nice out of Swarovski crystals. Despite Nadja Swarovski's best efforts to develop the 'couture' arm of the over one hundred year old brand, it still manages to carry a certain 'home-made-and selling-on-Etsy' kind of feel...

Well it did until Christopher Kane produced these necklaces (and smaller bracelets) for the AW2007 Atelier Swarovski collection. Padded 'Bolsters' - chunky material covered in a mesh of crystals - with a golden functional key-ring style clasp - banish thoughts of naff figurine animals the brand was once famous for, and definitely bring Swarovski back in the game for high-end costume/catwalk jewellery.



Whereas they still have a long way to go (you can still find a very nasty store on London's Oxford Street selling the aforementioned crystal covered deer etc) this is without a doubt a step in the right direction.

With subsequent Atelier Swarovski collections from serious fashion players Jonathan Saunders, Giles ('3 Stake' necklace from SS09 pictured above), Erdem and Rodarte, as well as London jewellery superstars Stephen Webster, Mawi and Pippa Small, it's clear that Nadja knows exactly what she's doing.

View the current and archive collections at www.atelierswarovski.com

Image copyright Christopher Kane / Swarovski 2007, Giles / Swarovski 2009.

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The genius of Solange: Part 1

Help we can't breathe...the new Solange Azagury-Partridge website is here.


Solange Azagury Partridge started out by carving a niche in the fine jewellery market unlike any other. With no formal training and a new baby preventing her from working in an office (ah, we love that), she started out by designing her own engagement ring to much praise from her friends.


Her almost total disregard for traditional subjects, styling and commerciality has made her pieces so completely desirable. The subject matter skips around happily from deep dark gothic influences to crisp clean science and maths, yet her style is instantly recognisable.


A browse through her website leaves us feeling confused and a bit dizzy - do we want the whimsical enamelled cloud ring? A simple CND diamond 'Tattoo' ring? If we're getting engaged we want a Supernova multicoloured diamond and opal ring.? A Smartie Poison ring? Seriously we feel sick. There's too much good stuff.



Therein lies the genius of her design - there's actually something for everyone (who has the cash or is willing to sell a kidney). Whether you're after a simple eternity diamond ring, a crazy techno multicoloured diamond extravaganza, a cute enamelled daisy, Pop-Art inspired pink lips (below), or classic slinky draping chains...it's all here.


And usually with a stunning detail - opening lids of rings, twisting and spinning elements...the mastery of the craftsmanship contributes to the well-deserved hefty price tag.


It actually makes us question our own style - what do we really like? We're bombarded by so much beauty that we want it all - gothic, classic, whimsical, graphic, rock, 80s, Pop-Art...the list goes on. She is appealing to the inner fickle nature of us all...we want to be able to be so many different things as the days, weeks and months go by - and this is the designer to stand by us for those years to come.

More shots from the site to come - in the meantime, if there's one site you visit today, make it this: www.solangeazagurypartridge.com.

The store is located at 187 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2SB in the UK, and 809 Madison Avenue, New York, NY10065 in the US.

We'll stop gushing now. Part 2 coming soon, featuring more frenetic, kinetic wonders from SA-P.

P.s. Even if you don't like jewels, the graphics on the website are ace:


All images copyright Solange Azagury Partridge 2009.

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No more white backgrounds! The best jewellery shoots of the year.

PART ONE: O+T for Please Magazine



OMG. The fashion press have realised the potential of the jewellery shoot. No more white backgrounds! - or black backgrounds! - or dull close-up cut-outs! Finally. We know still life can be boring to shoot, all that standing around all day...but really there's no excuse.

The slickest shots from a selection of editorials from the past few months are all predominantly from one publication - the magnificent 'Please' - a ground-breaking french magazine presenting the hottest new fine jewellery in the most inventive and inspirational ways we've seen yet. First up this week are photography duo O+T.

From the June edition of Please is a luxury shoot featuring Van Cleef & Arpels, Dior Joaillerie and Cartier...cute juxtoposition of old Mickey Mouse sweatshirts and vintage t-shirts could cheapen the look of the ridiculously expensive product - but no - expert art direction results in a fresh and luxury look without going OTT.



They also prove they can do classic:



And subtle: (we love how they've kept the shot the same but changed the product for each frame - this also worked well on previous Please shoots where each whole page of the fashion story had the model in the same pose but a different outfit)



There's simply too much good stuff in this publication to show without getting busted for copyright - our next post will feature french supershooters Tania et Vincent, and the seriously high-end Alix Malka who shot this for Italian Flair magazine:




Oh my.


Images courtesy of Please Magazine, all copyrights property of the artists/photographers.

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Go designer to save cash! 5 hot young jewellers to buy NOW.

Don't spend your hard-earned pennies down at H&M now there's a recession on....tat is bad on many levels - it looks cheap, it will break, and it's probably supporting some nasty sweat-shop somewhere. We all know that there's no fair way to produce a pair of £2.99 earrings. Seriously.

So here's the plan: cunning and wise fashionistas who know how to get their moneys worth are shopping with independent designers. And we don't mean Camden Market, we mean the hoards of jewellery designer/makers hiding away on random websites and obscure boutiqes. If you know where to find them, you're not only in with a chance of finding a limited edition or one-off piece that no one else will have, but you're also supporting these struggling artists rather than your local highstreet. Yay!

So we've picked our top 5 hot young designers du jour, for you to go forth and enjoy...

First up today (the rest will follow throughout the month) is Duffy Jewellery. Duffy is making the kind of rock'n'roll pieces that will add serious weight to your collection - big, fierce, heavyweight rings, bespoke link bracelets and necklaces, and hand-carved pendants. Our favourites are the crazy (and highly impractical) knuckledusters (above), the gold 'sad clown' skull pendant and this fishbone necklace.





Also - although it's a little cheeky - you can sometimes negotiate with the designer if you contact them directly. We're in no doubt that designers we're featuring throughout the next few weeks will most probably get snapped up by major retailers - but if you buy direct from the studio you could be looking at a lower rate. Barter hard, ladies, barter hard...

All pieces available at www.duffyjewellery.com.

All images copyright Duffy Jewellery 2009.

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Covet of the week: Sonia Cheadle 18k 'Fluid' collection

Very rarely does something appear that makes us seriously consider increasing our usual maximum spend on a piece...but the entire 'Fluid' collection by Clerkenwell based designer Sonia Cheadle is making us reach for the credit card. Draping gold ball chains hang seamlessly from solid chunks of perfect 18k rectangular clasps, in the form of a bracelet, a necklace, two rings and a pair of cufflinks. Five pieces of absolute master craftsmanship.

We'll let the photos do the talking for this collection, but everything about it is causing us to drool slightly and rationalise taking out a second mortgage....the smooth mechanics of the feature clasps, expanses of solid gold in perfect geometric shapes. We want it all...

Prices are on application at www.soniacheadle.com.








All images copyright Sonia Cheadle 2009

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This month we're feeling:

Tough, simple, golden. You may have already noticed this, with the last few posts dedicated to our favourite style of the moment; bold, gold hardware with a masculine edge and minimum fuss (hello Hannah Martin and Dominic Jones). We know all the big fashion houses are doing big, oversized, embellishment overload; with felt and crystals at Prada and huge slices of rock at Marni, but we can't help but feel that this is all a bit much - and carries a certain 'highstreet' feel about it. Yikes.

Whereas there's definitely a place for a nice Prada grey crystal 'bib' necklace (see below) - it certainly whacks a grey t-shirt and jeans up a notch - there's still little to distinguish these pieces from their highstreet copies.



Which is where the beautifully crafted solid golden pieces of detailed simplicity win us over every time. We know it sounds dramatic, but this simple Hannah Martin necklace (below) can totally transform anything else remotely girly or 'safe' you might be wearing in an instant - without a whiff of the highstreet.



We're also wearing a single earrings with everything at the moment to get the same result: a bit of asymmetry always helps to stop us from feeling too 'pretty' - current favourite is this Hannah Martin beauty (we're going to stop ranting about her soon, promise)



We know that the Prada bib is costume jewellery and Hannah Martin is clearly fine jewellery (prices can reach over £12,000 for a bangle) - so in theory we can't put them in the same race - but we feel we can. Jewellery always has a job to transform your outfit and how you feel when wearing it - so whether it's made of glass or gold, both these pieces aim to finish off your look with a lasting direction....and in this case we'd rather end up feeling a little bit tough than a little bit Topshop.

Images copyright Prada 2009, Hannah Martin London 2009, Dominic Jones 2009

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Me and Mr Jones...

Ok, so we've found another London-based jeweller to add to our top 5 jewellers of the moment. Despite being a newcomer to the jewellery scene, Dominic Jones managed to recruit Alice Dellal, Lizzy Jagger and Eliza Cummings for his new LookBook to present his first collection.

In a similar vein to our other designer du jour, Hannah Martin, Jones makes strong, solid golden pieces with a punky feel, yet his prices are a great deal more accessible than Martin's. This, he claims, is part of his plan. He creates the piece - such as the gorgeous 'Claw' ring - in brass, and then adds a thick gold plate; resulting in a much lower price point than his rival, but still giving a weighty, expensive feel.
His unisex jewellery is already creating a buzz here in the UK as well as in the US, no thanks in part to his business partner (and muse, it seems) Alice Dellal, who has invested in the label. She apparently fell in love on the spot with one of his rings and immediately wanted to be involved.
We don't blame her - we seriously love pretty much all of the collection, especially the rings and 'thorn' earrings; and - hooray! - Dominic's clever pricing means it's accessible to us even in these hard-up times. Prices range from a reasonable £100 upwards - have a look at the whole collection and the shoot at www.dominicjonesjewellery.com.

All images copyright Dominic Jones London 2009

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ARCHIVE: : Lara Bohinc Fine Jewellery

Poor Lara. Her designs have possibly been one of the most copied of the past few years, with the crazy success of her Solar Eclipse range being emulated (the nicest possible word for it) by most of the highstreet - and even some bigger names who should know better.

However, her fine jewellery range, which operates on a price-on-application policy for most of the pieces, showcases her truly original and maverick style that we at The Cut actually prefer to her more well known styles.

These gorgeous rings in white agate and 18K yellow gold, with pavé diamonds, are unlike anything in the fine jewellery world - big, bold pieces with unusual choices of stone, in both cut: huge round globes - and colour: bright white agate (pictured), turquoise and jet black.

The highly original use of these huge shapes in fine jewellery is quite rare, hence the hefty price-tag, and is sure to create another legion of copycat designs on the highstreet once they catch on...

Unfortunately for them, it's the weight and sheer beauty of the quality materials that make the piece so fantastic, so it's unlikely that cheaper versions would hold the same appeal.



Check out the whole range at www.larabohinc107.co.uk

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Vintage gold.

Perfection in one piece - this gorgeous vintage ring is everything we want over here at The Cut:

18k gold - in a nice vintage tone - geometric, simple but with a whimsical edge due to its Victorian heritage....we love love love it. Find it and similar stunning pieces like the simple 18k gold and prasiolite ring (below) at the Brooklyn NYC based vintage store Erie Basin.
You can also find similar styles by searching for 'vintage knot ring' in Ebay or google...

All images copyright Erie Basin USA 2009

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Hannah Martin London

The new site is up and running and does nothing but confirm Hannah Martin London's position as one of the top London jewellery designers.

The past and present collections are exactly what a young, fresh London clientele are wearing and wishing for at the moment - tough, bold, classic and beautifully executed designs. Despite many of the pieces hailing from collections that are 3 or 4 years old, they feel perfectly current and act as an antidote to the embellishment overkill of the past few seasons.

The fact that it's designed for men (apparently) only adds to its appeal - simple, clean lines and a minimal colour palette; reduced to a smattering of deep rubies, blue sapphires and black diamonds; lets the stunning expanses of gold shine brighter.

Our favourite is the black pearl single earring - the pearl screws in allowing the golden hook to sit behind the ear...
The new site's rather basic design is the only flaw I can find, missing a luxury feel found in the classic jewellery houses' websites like Chanel or Dior - but the jewellery itself is easily on a par with these established names, and Hannah Martin is swiftly producing collections to rival them.

View entire range at www.hannahmartinlondon.com

All images copyright Hannah Martin London 2009

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