The swoonsome Tomasz Donicik has done it again. Easily the best on show at this year's Treasure exhibition as part of London Jewellery Week, we saw his new collection '
Garden of Good & Evil' again at IJL.
In terms of elegant yet slightly dark, esoteric, engaging fine jewellery design, Tomasz is one of the best young jewellery designers London has to offer. Perfect if you're feeling a little bit gothic, but in a
high-end kind of way...
Using 18k rose gold, black rhodium gold and white gold, he adds diamond, rubies and tsavorites to illustrate the paradox of nature - deathly Venus Fly Traps vs innocent Lily Pads. The stone choices add a sinister touch with their dramatic deep hues, but this is softly offset through the organic, fluid shapes of the gold.
Tiny details such as black rhodium plated settings for the stones, hidden cage-like structures revealing bursts of colour and the use of pavé not visible from certain angles elevate these pieces to an almost 'haute joaillerie' status.
Unusual choices like pull-through earrings (below) add a contemporary twist, but Tomasz maintains the femininity and wearability throughout the whole 31-piece collection.
Knife-edges and a sculptural feel - as shown in the Venus Fly Trap ring below - is fast becoming his trademark, adding a gothic touch and a hard edge (literally) to fine jewellery design for women, but not losing any of the sensuality you want from wearing precious gemstones like rubies and diamonds.
This debut collection of women's fine jewellery is highly covetable, both for the intricate design and detail as much as for the beautiful display of stones and precious metal choices. Rose gold is a firm favourite for us, and the details such as tapered chains show a finely tuned instinct for feminine style and aesthetic...which is not bad for a man. Tomasz we salute you. Now go make me a pair of the rose gold pull-through earrings...
Selected pieces, including his menswear jewellery designs, are available through Elizabeth Galton's new venture,
www.elizabethgaltonstudio.com.
All images copyright Tomasz Donocik.
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